Hong Kong in the Time of Troubles Part 2
As we
wandered around the Venetian plaza, we found ourselves going towards the
Parisian area. Soon we were confronted with, what else, the Eiffel tower. The
Parisian streets were classier and the shops even higher end. But we had by now
had our fill of artificial wonders and wanted to visit the old Macau of
Portuguese descent. The Parisian casino had a convenient (and free) bus service
that took us to the old Macau and here we entered the world of what was once
Portugal’s last toehold in the East. There was more than a passing resemblance
to Malacca, and obviously so, as they had been built at roughly similar times
by the same people. There are ruins of the inevitable St Paul’s Cathedral, a
fort and lots of steep windy streets full of souvenir shops and eateries. And
there are tourists. I think Macau is much more easily accessible to the
Mainland Chinese and perhaps this was why wherever we went there was a huge
number so people; it reminded me of the Tiananmen Square and the Great Wall of
China, both of which are always full of people.
MACAU FORT |
It rained
heavily while we were exploring the fort which was atop a small hill and it was
pointed out that all the defences were organized to repulse a seaborne
invasion, the Portuguese never feared the millions of Chinese at their back.
The rain spoiled things a bit and when it stopped, the humidity, if anything,
had increased and we were now quite ready to take a bus back to the ferry
terminal and return to Hong Kong. Here we ventured to check out the longest
escalator in the world; unfortunately, a middle section was not working, so that
we could only go up one section.
On our way
back in a bus, we sat in the top of the bus and as all Calcuttan’s of my
vintage know, it is the best way to see a city. I was reminded of the good old L9 bus from Gol Park
to Shambazar. Hong Kong has not destroyed its soul as Singapore has. The
streets still have the flavour of the Far East, many old buildings remain and
there are plenty of small lanes and markets which make up the individuality of
a city. Public transport is excellent, there are buses, double-decker trams and
of course the MRT. The numbers of cars are fortunately limited though I am not
sure whether they have Singapore like tough laws to limit their number.
Double decker trams in Hong Kong |
After
dinner, Ninni insisted on us visiting the bar that she had gone to the first
day and we spent some time soaking he atmosphere, chatting and of course
drinking an overpriced cocktail each. And so to bed.
The third
and the last day was given over to the Big Buddha. We needed to check out as we
would not be returning to the hotel. After a late and leisurely breakfast, we
set off by the hotel shuttle to the Hong Kong central station and from there to
the Tung Chung station by the MTR. Travelling by public transport was a breeze
in Hong Kong: reasonably priced, fast and not too crowded at least today, which
was a Sunday.
The plan was
to take the cable car to the Big Buddha. But first we deposited our luggage at
the left luggage place. Shockingly overpriced ($ HK 100 for each piece of
luggage) but we had no choice as we certainly did not want to be saddled with
our bags all day. Today was hot, really hot. There were notices galore warning
of severe heat conditions. It is really like being in a sauna when the sun is
really out and glaring.
The cable
car was spectacular. It is run by the MTR and has been in service for about 10
years now. There have been several glitches in the service in its early years,
but today we rose above the bay to see the airport laid out below us and the
planes taking off and landing incessantly. The car makes a sharp turn to climb
over a set of hills before depositing you to the Big Buddha complex. The entire
run is 5.7 kilometres which makes it one of the longer cable car rides that I
have ever taken. The ascent is over a forest which was interspersed with waterfalls
and flowering trees. As we rose, the breeze began to blow and we found
ourselves ascending through the clouds that had gathered on the peak. Before the
end of the trip, the Big Buddha was visible in all its majesty, now covered by
clouds, now serenely visible.
The canny
Chinese have converted the top station of the cable car into a sort of Tourist
village where you can, and we did, spend a lot of money! It is fun to buy
souvenirs and have pictures taken, especially when your daughter is paying for
it!
The Big
Buddha itself is aloft some 250 odd stairs, not too much and we made it up with
little difficulty. The statue is similar to many that we have seen in India,
Korea and Japan. Most recently, I remember seeing the statue in Ravangla. It
is much more spectacular in a location with the Himalayas as the background. Be
that as it may, this statue was also very well sculpted and the deep devotion
that it evoked among the local population was palpable.
At the Wisdon Path |
There is a
so-called wisdom path which takes you into the surrounding jungles near the
Buddha. We hiked down the path, meeting the occasional walker but mostly meeting
up with myriad butterflies, and an occasional feral bull. Birds were there, but
in much smaller numbers that one would expect. Perhaps the heat of the day had
sent them undercover.
The next to
do thing was the Tai O Fishing village. We took a bus (standing room only) down
to the other side of the island and we were at the Fishing village. A small
river flows down beside it and empties itself into the sea. The village is not
really anything to write home about, we have seen many such in out travels in
South East Asia, plenty of smells and houses suspended over the river on
stilts. The thing to do here is to take a boat to try to see the pink dolphins.
Blogs had already warned us that nobody in living memory had seen them, but
what the heck, being on a boat in the water and the breeze blowing through our
hair was what the doctor had ordered in this sultry and very very hot day. We
did walk around the village a bit afterward, but to tell the truth, the sapping
heat made it difficult to even sit in the shade. In about an hour’s time we
were quite ready to return to the cooler climes of the village above.
By the time
we returned it was nearing 3 PM and we really needed our lunch and we opted for
Japanese food in one of the many restaurants. The return journey in the cable
car was just as spectacular and soon we were at the airport via a short bus
ride.
Protesters at the Hong Kong Airport |
We had some
time to wait for out flights as were to leave at half-hourly intervals from
9.30 PM. It was from the Departure hall that we first saw the famed protesters.
The entire concourse in the Arrival area was taken over by black-shirted
protesters who sat mostly quietly, often bursting into song and slogans and
applause. At that time we were not aware of it, but in downtown Hong Kong there
had been some police action which had led to one young girl losing one of her
eyes. But here the protesters were disciplined, not attempting to disrupt any
airport activities but handing out Xeroxed fact sheets about the protest.
My flight
got to KLIA 2 at 2. The immigration line which is never short in KLIA 2 no matter
what the time took around 30 minutes and when I drove into my condo car park it
was past 3 AM. Thank goodness the next day was Hari Raya Haji!
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