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Showing posts from November, 2013

Kutna Hora: the Heart of Bohemia

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When we visited Eastern Europe this year, we had a three day stay at Prague. There is little to write about Prague that has not been written a thousand times already, so I shall not waste my time. Suffice it to say that it is without doubt one of the most beautiful cities in the world. I loved it. This area in which the capital of the Czech Republic is situated is of course Bohemia, the legendary place for musicians, artists and writers whose alleged lifestyle has gifted the word bohemian to the English language. Originally a kingdom in the heart of Europe, these lands have seen many vicissitudes over the centuries, being ruled over by the adjacent German states, the Hapsburgs, and most recently splitting from the Slovak republic to become a member of the European union, albeit with its own currency still intact. About 60 kilometres from Prague is the town of Kutna Hora. Now it is a sleepy town, mainly dependent on tourists, but in the 14th and 15th centuries, it was a royal town a...

India's First Cricket Test Match Part 2

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This account is from Wisden. England, in their first representative match in this country with India, gained a fine victory shortly after four o'clock on the third afternoon by 158 runs. Before that result had been achieved, however, the home side, particularly on the first day, experienced some anxious moments. Actually, on the Saturday, they cut a very poor figure. Indeed, the manner in which they began called to mind the all too frequent failures in recent years of England at the beginning of a match against Australia. On paper, England looked to be particularly strong in batting. The dropping-out from international cricket of Hobbs had placed the selectors in something of a quandary as to whom to pick as opening batsman with Sutcliffe. Recourse was therefore had to Percy Holmes, Sutcliffe's regular partner for Yorkshire. This on the face of it seemed something of a retrograde movement seeing that it was 11 years since Holmes had been called upon for England. As it turne...

India's First Cricket Test Match Part 1

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The Indian cricket team played its first test match in 1932 during the tour of England. The tour was of great political and social significance as well because as the Evening Standard pointed out “ No politics, no caste, just cricket. This is the unofficial slogan of the Indian cricket team that has come from India… The 18 players speak eight or ten languages among them; they belong to four or five different castes: some may eat this, some may not eat that; a few are denied smoking by their religious laws; some have similarly drink proscribed; they are captained by a Maharajah rich beyond the dreams of county cricket treasurers and have tradesmen who earn their living with their hands; some come from the plains where cold is almost unknown,others come from hills where the climate has insured them even to an English summer. “ I am uploading two contemporary reports of that historic match: the first is from Wisden and the second from the Cricketer. England v India, Lord's, Ju...

Mamma Africa: Miriam Makeba and Malaika

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Today is the fifth death anniversary of singer activist Miriam Makeba. In our school days her songs were immensely popular; especially Malaika and Pata Pata which used to be bring to our staid Calcutta school the romance of Africa. She was one of the singers who made the sixties one of the most significant decades of revolt in the twentieth century when challenges to authority seemed to be a way of life. Miriam "Zenzi" Makeba was born in a suburb of Johannesburg in one of the crowded and deprived black townships of the apartheid era. Her father, Caswell, was Xhosa: her mother, Christina, was Swazi. Her given name Zenzi was derived from the Xhosa word Uzenzile, meaning "you have no one to blame but yourself". This was a traditional name intended to provide support through life's difficulties. When she was eighteen days old, her mother was arrested for selling umqombothi, an African homemade beer distilled from malt and cornmeal. Her mother was sentenced to a ...

A Trip to Beijing Part 6

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The final installment of Dr Madhumita Sen's travelogue. I hope there will be more from her in the future. DAY 4: Today we are going to the Zoo! It has been another dream of ours to see the Pandas. We arrive at the Zoo at 9.30am, but already the crowds are thick. Before we enter, Alice takes us aside and warns us to be careful with our valuables; pickpockets are common here, apparently. This is news, we have always read and heard that crime is really rare in Beijing (which is true, we’ve been here 3 days, in really crowded areas, and would have been definitely pick-pocketed by now in Kolkata!). Anyway, we shift our wallets and passports to secure pockets and dive into the surging crowds. There are two Panda enclosures, called the ‘Asiad’ enclosure and the ‘Olympic’ enclosure. The pandas are behind glass windows, but we are the ones enclosed, they are in the open. We really need to push through to catch a glimpse of the reclusive animals. We split up, jostled by the crowds (it is...

A Trip to Beijing Part 5

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The penultimate installment of Dr Madhumita Sen's travel diary. DAY 3: We start early again. After a hurried breakfast, we head for the Antique Merchant street, on the other side of the forbidden city. This is also an old part of town, but has been rebuilt to impress the tourist. It is fully pedestrianised and lined on both sides by small shops selling both real and fake antiques, jade, pearls, silk and tea. Many roadside statues have been made to give a historical feel. There are statues showing tea making, a statue of Cixi, the Dragon Queen, and cobblers with giant shoes. We then walk to the Zengiangmen watch tower, which was once part of the city gates, past the railway museum (built by the French, this was the old Beijing railway station), and come upon the picturesque Schichahai Lake. This is a beautiful lake in the middle of the old city, now surrounded by bars and restaurants. It is lined by weeping willows and birches, and there are many boats in the water. It is a re...

A trip to Beijing: Of Food and other Philosophical Musings

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The fourth installment of Dr Madhumita Sen's account of a visit to Beijing. Next stop, lunch. We climb the grand curving marble staircase, decorated at each landing with magnificent lacquer-work, and come up to the first floor, which is a large open dining area, already busy with diners. Large round tables are filled with delectable food, and suddenly we are really hungry. We are led to a separate enclosure and sit around a round table big enough to seat 10 people. We unload our gear and relax. Plates of food start to arrive, and Alice comes with a small bottle of rice wine and tiny china wine glasses. This is a traditional wine, reserved for special occasions, and is the strongest wine in China. At 56% alcohol, it is probably the strongest in the world! We pour the wine and click ‘cheers.’ After all, we have climbed the Great Wall, a childhood dream fulfilled! The wine burns down my throat like very strong whiskey ... got to sip it slo-o-owly. A word about the food in China....